Takada Hassho

After opening his first restaurant in 1989, with five other branches now under the same family, Chef Haruyuki Takada finds himself at the head of an impressive miniature culinary empire. This kaiseki restaurant in Gifu is his main outlet, and it’s here that he mentored an impressive number of Michelin-starred masters who now ply their trade around Japan. For Takada-san, the master-student relationship is a reciprocal relationship, with the youthful ideas of his wards reinvigorating his own imagination throughout the years. He also draws inspiration from friends all over the Japanese culinary scene, with a belief that Japanese cooking can be continually improved by adopting elements from foreign and contemporary cuisines. Though he shirks the methods of old in some respects, a very traditional respect for the seasons is still at the heart of the menu here. On the set-course menus, dish after dish of seasonal delights are served up before your eyes. The mini kaiseki lunch available for just 5,000 yen is a superb option for those who want to sample traditional dining without breaking the bank.