Kawaramachi Izumiya

Among rows of old townhouses in the riverside port and wholesale district of Kawaramachi and by the bank of the Nagaragawa River lies Kawaramachi Izumiya, a historical pocket of Gifu that has been operating since 1887. The Kishu binchotan charcoal grill in the kitchen serves as a shrine where the fifth-generation owner Izumi Zenshichi prepares fresh sweetfish, the highly prized emblematic fish of the prefecture. Better known as “ayu” in Japanese, sweetfish is a local delicacy that thrives in clear rivers — hence its nickname, “the queen of clear rivers.” The fish lay their eggs during the colder season and swim upstream in the spring. The pristine waters it inhabits give them a gentle, sweeter flavor that often carries a mellow aroma. When it comes to serving these prefectural river dwellers, Kawaramachi Izumiya is in a class of its own. Wild-caught sweetfish, or “tenen ayu,” are grilled over charcoal until the bones become tender and edible. The assured menu tells the story of the fish’s journey: "waka-ayu," young sweetfish harvested in summer, are fried in tempura batter and seasoned with Japanese pepper called "sansho". Midsummer is peak ayu season, when the fish are at their fattest, and the restaurant serves them shioyaki-style — salted and grilled. Diners can also enjoy a bowl of their signature noodle soup, topped with sun-dried ayu, but can never go wrong with its sweetfish “urukayaki,” coated with the fish roe sauce, or the appetizer of ayu sushi wrapped in bamboo leaves called “sasa." All of these dishes and more can be enjoyed a la carte, but the full sweetfish experience is encapsulated in the form of a multi-course meal. Michelin Guide accolades: 2019 - Michelin Plate on the Michelin Guide Aichi-Gifu-Mie 2019 Selection