Eiki

Some might argue that Onoda Kohei’s success is not warranted. Born as the son of the owner of Toriaki, a long-established yakitori restaurant in Denenchofu, and trained under Ikegawa Yoshiteru of Torishiki — regarded as one of, if not the, best yakitori omakase in Japan — Onoda's path may seem paved rather than forged. But with his independent venture in the leafy neighborhood of Ebisu, which opened in 2019, Onoda is proving that talent runs in his DNA and that he deserves his place among the young talents ushering in a new era of yakitori. Pass the navy curtain and into the intimate 15-seat counter, and you’ll know you’re seeing Onoda if you spot a fan tucked at his waist. He uses it to rouse the flames of his white-hot binchotan charcoal and cool down the meat morsels. His chicken skewers may appear deceptively simple, but each one is crafted with meticulous precision. Like his former master, Onoda chooses Date chicken, raised in Fukushima Prefecture. The chicken is rotated just a centimeter at a time, locking in its juices over the grill for even cooking. Even the familiar classics — like negima (scallion and chicken thigh), quail eggs and chicken skewers — take on a distinctive flair. Take chicken liver, for example: often gamey elsewhere, here, it’s so buttery it practically disintegrates in your mouth. With its rapidly growing fan base, Eiki has already established its cult dish — aromatic rice mixed with chicken and clam broth. But gourmets also note how his karaage bursts with juiciness despite being encased in a crunchy shell and how the deep-fried tofu finds its perfect place in the meat-centric omakase. Park yourself around the U-shaped wooden counter, centered in an Edo-style space, and let Onoda take the reins. Bell crests, inspired by the character of the restaurant’s name (which means "bell") is a theme in the decor. Perfection might not exist, but Eiki is coming close to it.