Kifu

Against the dark, Kifu’s black-paneled facade, designed by architect Chiba Manabu, casts a shy, enigmatic glow. Tucked away in a back alley near Bishamonten Zenkokuji Temple in Kagurazaka, an Edo-style neighborhood with hilly streets and hidden cafes, Kifu’s name — meaning “time flows” in Japanese — reflects the chef’s desire for guests to relax and savor their time at this intimate sushi restaurant. All the elements of a high-end sushi experience are present, centered around the minimalist, bleached wood interior designed by architect Ashihara Hiroko. Standing behind the counter is the chef, who served as a head chef at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Ginza, preparing the dozen or more nigiri courses that await. The menu, like the atmosphere, possesses a rare transportive power, whisking diners into an immaculate world of pristine fish before gently releasing them back onto the streets of Tokyo. Applying the techniques of Edo-style sushi — developed during the Edo period — chef Yuki Sato cuts wild-caught fish harvested from Japan’s coasts. For sushi rice, the "Akitakomachi" grain from Yuzawa, Akita Prefecture, is cooked slightly firmer to soften just enough by the time it is served to guests, then seasoned with two types of rice vinegar from Kyoto and red vinegar. Fillets become neta, and neta becomes nigiri; each item, from the wild bluefin tuna to the boiled conger eel, is prepared according to its condition. The soup stock, made from ma-konbu kelp from southern Hokkaido and carefully selected bonito flakes, perfectly complements the secondary ingredients — dried gourd from Tochigi, nori seaweed from Ariake, and Okukuji eggs from Ibaraki. Though relatively new, having opened in 2020, Kifu’s underdog appeal only adds to its charm. The friendly staff ensures that everyone feels right at home, whether they are a regular local or a first-time visitor.