Kudanshita Sushi Masa

Over the past five generations, Sushi Masa has been an unchanging landmark in Tokyo serving up classic Edomae-style sushi without so much changing a single thing. The restaurant began as a traveling food stall, setting up shop in several locations before finding a permanent home in Kudanshita. It does not forget its origin: the rice storage bin from 1861 is still used today, and paintings of a squid and a frog done by frequent patron Takeuchi Seiho, a highly influential Japanese artist during pre-war Japan, are prominently displayed. Tradition and history inform not just the ambiance but also the dishes, as Sushi Masa uses recipes that have been passed down for generations. The current fifth-generation owner, Tobari Masahiro, learned the art of tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelet) and the technique required to boil anago (conger eel) from his grandmother. Red vinegar seasons the sushi rice, which is then topped with fresh, seasonal fish like southern bluefin tuna or the conger eel, cooked in a marinade used over the years. The storied menu unfolds in a building that has miraculously endured the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and the Tokyo bombing in World War II. Diners sit at a counter made from a single-cut wood directly across from the chef as they prepare food in front of them. All the private rooms on the second floor are equipped with tatami mats and a tokonoma alcove. The wooden structure, bolstered by copper panels, is a sight the city has not seen so often. Conveniently located in the heart of the city, Sushi Masa is just 10 minutes from Tokyo Station and is near several major landmarks, such as the Imperial Palace, Yasukuni Shrine and Budokan. Naturally, this proximity makes Sushi Masa a popular spot to visit all year round, but never more so than during the sakura season. In peak blooming season, the Imperial Palace's 260 cherry trees bring thousands of flower-viewing visitors every day, and many of them end up at the counter of Sushi Masa, drawn by the promise of authentic Edomae sushi just 10 minutes' walk away. During this time, reservations are difficult to secure, but for those who manage to get one, an unforgettable sushi service awaits — the perfect endcap to a Tokyo sakura experience.