Yamada

With its recent relocation from Kitashinchi, Osaka’s high-strung nightlife district, to the quiet of Nishitenma by the tranquil Dojima River, Oryori Yamada has crested a new frontier of traditional Japanese cuisine. It’s all thanks owner-chef Yamada Akihiro, who finally went independent after eight years at the Michelin-celebrated Koryu and Koketsu. Coming from a lineage of third-generation chefs, beginning with his grandfather, Yamada took his namesake from a local gem to a highly sought-after eatery, building a loyal clientele at a time when Osaka’s dining scene was reaching its peak. Via a long wooden bar, this moody 8-seat restaurant puts guests up close and personal with the chef; the space is traditional, and the atmosphere still. Yamada’s success lies in his openness to change and his ability to seamlessly weave creativity into the fabric of traditional Japanese cuisine. His menu is a tribute to local, seasonal ingredients, with past highlights such as steamed soft-shelled turtle paired with manganji peppers and yellow chives, charcoal-grilled tilefish from Wakayama Prefecture, and Numashima conger eel tempura served with kudzu somen noodles. His subtle nods to Western flavors and techniques are evident in dishes like his croquettes, as well as in his thoughtfully curated wine collection. It’s impressive stuff at Oryori Yamada, backed by an impressive champagne list, too. Michelin Guide accolades: 2024 - 1 Michelin Star