RIVA

Hidden behind its pristine white noren on the narrow street of Chuo-dori in Hiroshima, the magnificent, unwavering RIVA delivers the exacting standard of local cuisine with a reverence for Hiroshima. The respect is palpable through its name, borrowed from the French actress Emmanuelle Riva who starred in the 1960s romantic drama Hiroshima Mon Amour (“Hiroshima, my love”). The hushed, Japanese dining room — “a hideaway,” the restaurant claimed — may look spartan at first, but subtle luxury is writ at RIVA. It’s there in the smooth wood counter, the coffered ceiling and the solicitousness of the private rooms. Even the staff glides in near-silent to deliver the meal: offal oden, buttery wagyu beef fillet or red seabream dressed in Moromi sauce. Still packing the house after 12 years, it’s not so much longevity for which RIVA should be commended but more its stalwart formula of a menu that changes monthly. It is here that the chef relies on mountain-gathered, island-raised and sea-harvested foodstuffs from Chugoku region, churned into a stunning 18-course kaiseki progression. It’s an exercise in restraint, where each dish is minimally portioned yet exquisitely executed and crafted with the intention of being enjoyed locally. The fish, as it should be, is a major part of the equation. Catches from the Seto Inland Sea and the San’in region gets proper treatment of Hiroshima-sourced seasonings. Soy sauce comes from Etajima, kelp from Sakata Kombu Store and pickled vegetables from Yamatoyo. The venue also houses a petite sweet shop that showcases premium Hiroshima-themed premium sweets. The exceptional service is evident throughout the dining experience, from the warm welcome to the courteous farewell.