Standing Sushi Jinjin

When owner-chef Izumi Kimura shuttered the doors of his acclaimed Michelin-starred Sushi Jin in Toyama in 2023, he was already setting his eyes on the next big thing: a conceptual high-end standing sushi bar. A self-taught and ambitious sushi artisan, he transformed an old traditional house near Heiwa-dori Street into what can only be described as a sushi sanctuary dressed in the veneer of a cool wine bar. The space is clad with moody lighting, dark wood accents and a sleek concrete bar where the staff makes sure that your glass is always filled with sake (some days, it’s Iwa 5 brewed in Toyama) or champagne (most days, it’s either Krug or Ruinart). Among diners, certain things are acknowledged: the mastery of Kimura's rendition of Toyama's famed masu-zushi — pressed sushi with cherry trout — and the irresistible small plates, including aged minke whale meat and charcoal-grilled nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch) skewers. The menu is always anchored by Kimura’s love for sushi. Red snow crab, sweet shrimp and bigfin reef squid are beautifully scored and dressed. During the day, he prepares the sushi rice on the counter; red vinegar is used, similar to Edomae or Kanto-style sushi. He brings along some familiar favorites from his former shop, like his rendition of chawanmushi with plum sauce.