Sushi Kuriyagawa

Sushi Kuriyagawa in Ebisu pursues a style all its own, honoring the traditions of Edo-mae sushi while weaving in ideas that refuse to be bound by convention. Since opening in 2012, the chef has centered his work on a simple idea: each piece of sushi should be paired with the rice that best complements the fish. By skillfully alternating between red vinegar-seasoned rice and rice vinegar-seasoned rice, he has developed what might be called an "ever-changing shari" — the defining feature of the restaurant, shaping an experience built on both rice and fish together. The chef grew up in a sushi-restaurant family in Izu Kogen, Shizuoka, beginning his training at 18 and gaining experience at renowned sushi restaurants as well as in traditional Japanese and kappo cuisine. At 28, he became head chef in Nishi-Azabu, and four years later opened Sushi Kuriyagawa in Ebisu, driven by a wish to make sushi dining more enjoyable. The course alternates original shuko with delicately prepared nigiri rather than serving all appetizers first, bringing surprise and delight to every visit. Different seasoned rice is paired with each fish to bring out its best qualities. The dining room balances traditional tension with modern touches — a large flower vessel, an accent of wallpaper, high ceilings, and a polished counter create a relaxed, refined space. The chef's workstation is designed with pride to be seen, letting counter guests fully enjoy the craftsmanship. Located in Ebisu, one of Tokyo's top dining neighborhoods, Sushi Kuriyagawa suits both special occasions and relaxed meals.