Sushidokoro Kurosugi

Kurosugi Akihiro grew up in Hiroshima in a family that ran a fishing business, so his calling to become a sushi chef was not surprising. Expected, even. He was drawn to the world of Edomae sushi — sushi that makes use of fish caught from Tokyo Bay — and was behind the counter of Kenzan in Osaka for 12 years. At 30 years old, he opened his first restaurant, an early-blooming, brazen feat in an industry where chefs typically wait decades before striking out on their own. Sushidokoro Kurosugi opened in 2015 in the thick of Osaka’s gourmet-studded Kitashinchi. As Edomae is the state of mind, red vinegar is the maxim that drives the flavor of his sushi. He works around the simple formula of subtraction: hard-boiled Hinohikari rice is coated with a blend of low-acidity vinegar. Kurosugi does not add sugar, so the taste does not tire the tongue. His neta, or fish topping, changes daily depending on what’s in stock, but always relies on the Edomae method of aging, processing and marinating. This practice is easy to observe firsthand. It’s visible in the abalone, steamed with sake and water for three hours to achieve perfect tenderness. It’s even more apparent in the Hokkaido hairy crab, salted with seawater and finished with a dash of vinegar to enhance its sweetness. The white-fleshed fish? It’s pressed with thick sheets of kombu to draw out its full umami flavor. A hinoki cypress counter wraps around the kitchen, which doubles as a stage where Kurosugi artfully prepares nigiri before his guests. True to the spirit of "omotenashi," Kurosugi meticulously attends to every aspect of his service, ensuring the fish is at the perfect temperature and timing each serving with precision. For a more intimate experience, fully private rooms are available. Kurosugi's other branch, Sushidokoro Kurosugi Shinkan, was featured in the Michelin Guide in 2024.