Suzunari

It’s impossible to talk about Suzunari without mentioning that it’s set in one of Tokyo’s most atmospheric districts, Arakicho, a former geisha town. This kaiseki restaurant, helmed by master chef Murata, is tucked away in one of the area's sleepy back alleys. Its narrow entrance, marked by a navy noren adorned with the restaurant’s name, leads to an intimate and homely space. After a 13-year tenure at the legendary Nadaman, Murata took a gamble in 2005 by opening Suzunari. The risk paid off when it earned its first Michelin star in 2012 and held onto it for six consecutive years. Despite the accolades, not much has changed — the ambiance remains cozy, and the course menu pricing is surprisingly below industry standards. Murata’s philosophy is simple: "serve delicious food at low prices." As a staunch advocate for seasonal cooking and Japanese produce, his menu changes frequently, though a few dishes have become staples due to popular demand. His raw sea urchin tamajimushi, a chawanmushi-style, soup-like dish topped generously with sea urchins, is a permanent fixture after repeated requests from patrons. Another highlight is the bluefin tuna served with a rich egg yolk sauce. Other dishes reflect the fleeting beauty of the seasons, such as kegani crab with ginger in the spring or kurumaebi (Japanese tiger prawn) paired with persimmons, ginkgo nuts and kinoko mushrooms in the fall. Dinner always concludes with takekomi gohan (seasoned rice). The remaining rice is thoughtfully transformed into onigiri for guests to take home. The drinks list covers everything from wines (mainly from France) and interesting sake (entirely from all across Japan). Michelin Guide accolades: 2012 - 2018 - 1 Michelin Star