Tokyo Kappo Terunari

From the Michelin-starred chef behind Suzunari, Tokyo Kappo Terunari manages to puzzle together French cooking with kaiseki, Japan’s most elevated form of cuisine, in a way that is both brilliant and precise. Located in Yotsuya, Murata Akihiko’s second restaurant enlists French-trained chef Tokumoto Kanichi to pilot the kitchen. Tokumoto's approach is less about strict adherence to seasonal ingredients and more about skillfully working with what’s available, crafting dishes that flirt with gastronomy while staying grounded in tradition. It’s evident in his savory rendition of the monaka, a traditional red bean paste sandwich. Instead of azuki beans, Tokumoto transforms the liver of Kohaku chicken from Chiba Prefecture into a silky mousse. Chopped nara pickles replace the typical mochi, and the sugar-soy-glazed monaka wafers create a harmonious balance that feels both familiar and innovative. Other dishes subtly fuse French and Japanese elements, like roasted Ezo deer thigh from Hokkaido, draped in a red wine sauce enhanced with soy and mirin. A chawanmushi-like custard takes its flavor from Japanese dashi and is enriched with beef tendon, wasabi and leeks. His appetizers, presented in the style of hassun (a course-setting starter), feature eight beautifully arranged small plates. Even the final course of claypot-cooked rice is elevated with the addition of cheese. Kappo Terunari departs from the typically exclusive bar-counter setup of traditional kaiseki. Instead, the space offers a mix of counter seating, tables and semi-private rooms, making it ideal for groups seeking a fresh take on kaiseki dining.