FORTUNE GARDEN KYOTO

Palatial and architecturally historic, the FORTUNE GARDEN KYOTO sits in the former headquarters of Shimadzu Corporation. The Showa-era heritage building, slotted along the streets of central Kyoto, was built in 1927 by prolific modern-Japanese architect Takeda Goichi, who was known as the “Father of Kansai Architecture.” Inspired by the curves of Art Nouveau and the architectural styles of Vienna, not much of its skeleton has changed; timeless details like the arch-shaped entrance and round windowpanes persist, updated by a touch of Franco-sensibility and Kyoto charm. The influence-mixing is a gamble in a city loyal to tradition, but since its transformation in 2012, the French-accented bistro has won over the hearts of even skeptical Kyotoites. Its dark-hued room has a real sense of nostalgic energy; wall-to-ceiling windows overlook a pond filled with silver carp and a serene bamboo forest. A courtyard aptly named the “Garden of Fortune” formulates a play of greenery, light and water. Unsurprisingly, there’s a French bias at work here: the menu is seeded with the likes of tartare, lamb and eggplant stewed in white wine, and bonito carpaccio with aioli on the appetizer front. The restaurant’s drawing card is the bouillabaisse, which uses broth made from shrimp, crab and local seafood, and features grilled seabream, day-fresh mussels and seasonal vegetables. Bigger flavors arrive with the bavette with an original chimichurri sauce, or the charcoal-grilled Omi beef fillet and Tasmania lamb. A la options of over 30 dishes benefit from locally sourced Kyoto ingredients. Natural wines and original craft beer dominate the drink library (one of the beers is a collaboration with Kyoto Nude Brewery). It’s romantic with just the right amount of casual ambiance — a convenient but grand date spot in the heart of Kyoto.