Kappo Ichika

For Ishikawa native and owner-chef Iwasaki Kenji, every evening tells a story. His small kappo restaurant, sitting in a hilly residential area by Yoyogi-Uehara Station, is run under the philosophy of “serving the best food to customers.” His cooking style is glued to traditional Japanese formulae, but he is open to possibilities. It is this flexibility that allows him to create a narrative through the culinary voice he honed while training at a ryokan in Kaga, as well as top hotel restaurants in Yokohama and Tokyo. At Kappo Ichika, Iwasaki writes a menu that dreamily merges familiarity and novelty. He emphasizes prudent preparation and the use of dashi, the versatile Japanese soup stock. Using seasonal fish and wild vegetables, he creates a dynamic progression of flavors. The rice is cooked in a traditional clay pot, and grilled or steamed dishes are delicately seasoned to coax out the flavors of the stock. But then, there are sparks of originality that interrupt the conventional flow. One standout creation is the unique wagyu beef monaka. Iwasaki’s twist on this dish features a wafer bun filled with wagyu beef and shira-ae sesame paste. Meanwhile, drinks are served in Edo Kiriko glassware that Iwasaki made himself. The sake offerings include Kokuryu, known for its fruity and delicate aroma, and Tedorigawa, which highlights the umami of rice. Many things make Kappo Ichika feel like home. The venue stays open until 1:30 am, welcoming late-night diners to settle into the counter seats. The smooth service from the team adds to the sense of ease. The small interior closes the connection between the customers and the chef. While Iwasaki also manages a sister restaurant, Kappo Yuzuha, in Nakameguro, it is this concept that makes him stand as the master of the house.