Meat Kappo Ginza KEIJI

A trailblazer in the Ginza dining scene, Ginza KEIJI has the elegance that matches its prestigious location, but its brilliance goes further beyond. While the intimate 8-seat counter, moodily lit private rooms, stunning tableware and classy decor might solicit anyone to dress to the nines, gourmets quickly learn that cleansing their palate is just as important as looking the part. After leaving his influential post at a long-established hotel in Asakusabashi, Ginza KEIJI's head chef, appointed in 2024, writes a menu that leisurely incorporates wagyu while staying true to the essence of kappo — a lesser-known yet revered form of traditional cuisine that combines the close chef-guest interaction of sushi with the seasonal elegance of Japanese cuisine. Having trained in both Italian and French cuisine — he had worked in multiple high-end restaurants in Akasaka and Nishi Azabu — his creative approach to meat, particularly wagyu, turns in dishes that stimulate the senses with captivating aromas and tastes of red meat. The menu shifts with the availability of seasonal ingredients while also cultivating a reverence for whatever produce is at hand. The counter is the stage for guests to see the chef work his craft. The fusion of wagyu and tradition is evident in offerings like chawanmushi, a steamed egg custard made with beef tail, topped with delicate milt. Beef brisket, sliced as sashimi, is enhanced with ginger and sweet soy sauce; wagyu is transformed into sushi with uni or ikura; and beef liver is prepared with sesame oil or garlic sauce. For more straightforward presentations, the sirloin shabu-shabu or the chateaubriand steak, grilled simply but to perfection, shows beauty in simplicity. Alcohol plays an integral part in dining, so the sake, shochu and wine lists are constantly evolving, ambitious yet accessible. Opt for the course with alcohol pairing for a balance of local and international distilleries.