Kagurazaka Tempura Tenko

If there is anyone who has been responsible for the proliferation of tempura worldwide, it is the head chef of Kagurazaka Tempura Tenko, Arai Hitoshi. Having made tempura since 1977, he first represented the craft of tempura at the Napa Valley Worlds of Flavor conference in 2010, he later went on a veritable world tour, presenting on the merits of tempura in New York the next year, followed by further culinary conventions in Warsaw, Paris and Milan. Of course, as he has already explained to thousands of people in his lectures, the minutiae of tempura are all vitally important: from the freshness of the ingredients, to the makeup of the batter, to the temperature of the frying oil, to the duration of which each individual piece of tempura is fried. But the true depth of flavor — what makes tempura truly delicious — is not so much the ingredients or technique, but rather, the hospitality in which it is served. A meal at Kagurazaka Tempura Tenko starts from the moment customers step through the gate, and lasts till the moment they leave. Even more than the flavors and textures of the ingredients used, Chef Arai believes particular attention to seasonality and hospitality is key to enjoying the tempura experience — it is, he claims, what adds “depth” to the flavor. As such, not only is his service supremely attentive, but the interior of the restaurant is also specially curated to be a quiet space of luxury — the perfect place in which to enjoy perfectly-fried tempura and a glass of sake with loved ones. That’s not to say that the tempura itself takes a backseat to the service — far from it. Taking his cues from his father before him, Chef Arai makes seasonal tempura that is a feast for both the taste buds as well as the eyes. The restaurant’s signature dish actually comes towards the end. Breaking down tempura fritters (kakiage) into bite-sized pieces, Chef Arai mixes them into rice to make his wildly popular tenbara, a perfectly crunchy end to the meal.