KYO SUSHI OOKINI

Sushi may not fit the traditional definition of junk food — at least, not like greasy burgers from fast-food joints. But it was once Japan’s hawker food, designed for quick bites on the go. Murata Tsutomo, who founded KYO SUSHI OOKINI in 2000 by Kyoto’s Mibudera Temple, is elevating these iconic morsels with a focus on nutrition, designing a course of carefully calibrated nigiri that balances health and flavor. It’s all made possible for a few reasons. The restaurant's softly lit, traditionally designed space is located near the Kyoto City Central Wholesale Market, Japan's first wholesale market, allowing easy access to fresh seafood and vegetables. And Murata is pretty serious about where his items come from. All seafood is wild-caught, while the vegetables are organic. The salt used is 100% seawater, free from chemical seasonings, and the miso comes from Gifu, which is made with soybeans grown without pesticides. The menu remains as seasonal and thoughtfully composed as ever, showcasing Murata’s expertise as a chef with over 45 years of experience with kyo-ryori (Kyoto cuisine) and nihonryori (Japanese cuisine). And if his guests already marvel their way through striped horse mackerel, boiled conger eel dressed in thick sauce or the chef-special mugwort pasta, they'll be even more pleased to discover they can also request their favorite sushi. A vegetarian or avoiding animal-based products? Murata, a city-certified dietary education instructor, can work his magic on a new menu. Such hospitality typically comes at a premium, but KYO SUSHI OOKINI’s courses are surprisingly affordable. Grab a seat at the counter to witness the talent at play.