Matsunozushi

Tucked away in Tokyo’s Shiinamachi neighborhood is the tiny sushi shop Matsunozushi. Opened in 1969, Matsunozushi — sometimes called Matsuno Sushi — is a specialist in the Edomae style of sushi. Popular as a street food during the rapid modernization of Edo (modern-day Tokyo), Edomae sushi was largely broiled or simmered, due to a lack of sufficient refrigeration methods. Raw sushi toppings would usually be heavily pickled or salted to maintain freshness for as long as possible. And so in true Edomae style, at Matsunozushi, guests will find kelp-wrapped marlin, spear squid cooked and stuffed with rice in the inro-zume style, along with other Edomae staples like silver-skinned fish and conger eel. Counter seats allow guests to watch the second-generation owner-chef craft the sushi himself, as he deftly sculpts shari rice and makes precise cuts in each topping. Matsunozushi only seats eight — and does so with a very tight fit, at that — so it is better suited to small groups. As a cash-only restaurant, credit cards and other alternative forms of payment are also not accepted, so customers must ensure that they have plenty of cash before taking their seats. Michelin Guide: 2018 - Bib Gourmand