Nihonbashi Funazushi

Halfway between Nihombashi and Ningyocho Station in Tokyo, Nihonbashi Funazushi is a charmingly chilled sushi restaurant with seasonality as its main draw. Originally a smaller neighborhood focusing on Edomae sushi, or sushi that relies on fish caught from Tokyo Bay, the store flourished during Japan’s post-war economic boom and had sourced its seafood from Tsukiji Fish Market. The founder was not a sushi master — at least, not in the traditional sense — but he had viewed sushi making as a canvas for craftsmanship. Today, Nihonbashi Funazushi is helmed by a third-generation owner who’s bringing the store to a new era. The menu has been expanded to Japanese cuisine, where heavy influences of kaiseki bleed into its lineup. The dining space has been renovated to accommodate special occasions; walls have been removed to create larger rooms, and new partitions are erected for private spaces. There are a lot of ideas and cultures in the air, and it could have gone terribly wrong, but it all comes down beautifully. Still relying on Edomae techniques, neta fish is marinated, boiled or pickled. A few modern tweaks are palpable, such as the choice to reduce the saltiness of red vinegar and sweeten it for their shari (sushi rice). Attention to detail extends to the rice itself, which is cooked to retain warmth when served but remains plump and delicious even as it cools. For the simplest examples of his approach, take the marinated mackerel sashimi or the boiled conger eel lovingly brushed with thick sweet tare. Service is not an afterthought, either — both the chef and proprietress (the first owner's wife) are passionate about discussing their sushi and fish. Visit for the meal and stay for the warm charm that brings a touch of old Edo to modern Tokyo.