Ebitei Bekkan

With over 100 years of history behind it, Ebitei Bekkan is legendary among Japanese gourmets. First established in 1911, the restaurant is now owned by Chef Mura Kentaro, its fourth-generation owner, who led it to receive two Michelin stars in the special Toyama-Ishikawa edition of the Michelin Guide in 2016. Not content with resting on his laurels, however, Chef Mura closed his restaurant in 2018 to further his training in Tokyo, acquiring new techniques and honing his existing repertoire. He then returned to Toyama to reopen Ebitei Bekkan in a new location four years later — in a side street a few blocks west of Toyama Castle — after much anticipation. Nonetheless, the core philosophy remains the same. Listed as one of the Japan Times’ top Destination Restaurants 2024, Ebitei Bekkan built its reputation on its uncomplicated showcase of the Hokuriku region’s natural flavors. As such, Chef Mura is especially particular about his ingredients; his day starts at daybreak, where he personally goes to various fishing ports around the city to secure his catch of the day: the primary determiner of his menu. Then, it’s an hour’s drive in each direction to the two places from which he secures his spring water: mineral-rich water for his soups, and a softer type for cooking the rice, which is a Koshihikari cultivar from Oyabe City. Only a select few ingredients from outside the region are deemed suitable for use — such as konbu from off the coast of Hokkaido, and of course the vaunted katsuobushi (dried skipjack tuna) flakes from Makurazaki: a time-honored combination that makes the finest dashi in the nation. A qualified sommelier, Chef Mura is equally particular about the drinks that go with his thoughtfully crafted course menus. Similar to the ingredients, the sake is Hokuriku through and through, primarily sourced from local breweries within Toyama. Nonetheless, a few of his personal favorites make it to his shelf, including some from as far north as Aomori Prefecture. A handful of wines — similarly hand-selected by Chef Mura — are also available for pairing.