Sushi Iwa

In 2010, Onishi Toshiya served tech-mogul Steve Jobs the kamatoro sushi — the fattiest parts of the tuna carved from its collar and jaw, available only in scarce quantities — from the fish he purchased earlier that day. “Keep making this until I say, ‘stop,’” Jobs famously instructed. Jobs ate six pieces of kamatoro that night. If Sushi Iwa was already at the frontier in Kyoto’s sushi scene, Jobs’ visit propelled it to stardom. But the restaurant’s reputation didn’t hinge on celebrity endorsement; it’s been in operation since 1960 and was a pioneer at a few things. For one thing, the first owner Onishi Iwao, had opened Sushi Iwa as a counter-seating sushi restaurant in an era when sushi in Kyoto was primarily geared for deliveries. For another thing, Onishi’s menu is broken apart into four cycles throughout the year, each to reflect the nature of Japanese seasons. First impression: it’s all about the omakase sushi. A trio of appetizers, elegantly presented in a stunning mamezara, is so exquisite it resembles a hassun, the kaiseki starter that sets the theme of the meal. Amberjack topped with finger lime bursts with a tangy, creamy flavor; the boiled conger eel is brushed with a rich tare sauce, the tender meat embracing the rice; and the sea urchin roe from Hokkaido is decadently creamy and fresh. And then, of course, there’s Sushi Iwa’s kamatoro, unanimously voted the restaurant’s specialty since Jobs' visit. But Onishi has a few tricks up his sleeve. The 50-plus brands of Japanese sake and shochu? All are personally curated by Onishi, who also happens to be a certified sommelier. Worried about not speaking a word of Japanese? You’ll find Onishi effortlessly chatting with his guests in English, maintaining the same chirpy demeanor he extends to his local regulars. In the far corner of the room, a framed message immortalized a message that Jobs wrote: “All good things.” Indeed.