Takoyakushi Furukawa

Delicate – no word sums up better the appeal of Takoyakushi Furukawa's ensemble of quiet elegance, attention to detail and ability to deliver a kaiseki that shines even among Kyoto’s already stellar crop of eateries. The restaurant, which finally strikes a Michelin ping in the 2024 guide, rocks a tiny space deeply hidden in Kyoto’s Shijo Karasuma area. It’s technically located inside an izakaya; meander to the back of the space and notice the lively buzz fade into calm. The kappo-style interior unfurls around a counter made from a single slab of hinoki cypress, framed by earthen walls and ikebana arrangements. The space feels intentionally sparse to direct diners' attention to the cooking process at eye level for those seated at the counter. Takoyakushi Furukawa may be small, but it is a big celebration of one of Kyoto's fundamental culinary elements: dashi. Fittingly, the meal starts with a tasting of this foundational soup stock. Like the restaurant’s bare-bones interior, the dashi is designed to ride along the natural flavors of each ingredient it accompanies. It is umami-rich but never overpowering, a subdued dignity characteristic of Kyoto-style kaiseki cuisine. Following the dashi tasting, the kappo’s deep respect for traditional cooking and seasonality comes to life. Well-timed dishes are prepared with precision and passion, with minimalist intervention. In summer, for example, the chef presents ayu bone crackers, while eel is grilled and served with soft winter melon and a dashi paste. The meal concludes with a rice dish, such as white rice, or clay pot-cooked takikomi gohan (mixed rice) or zosui, a comforting Japanese rice soup. The sake (or tea) pairing harmonizes beautifully with Furukawa's curated tableware. Though a new face in the guidebook, Takoyakushi Furukawa remains at the vanguard of Kyoto’s culinary realm. Michelin Guide accolades: 2024 - Michelin Guide feature