Ushikoi Kanda

Yakiniku lovers all throughout Japan are definitely familiar with the name Ushikoi. The name is synonymous with affordable, cost-effective yakiniku. With outlets all over Tokyo, the Ushikoi — meaning “cow love” — series of restaurants is a labor of love of its anonymous founder, “Koinosuke.” Choosing to remain anonymous, Koinosuke only ever appears in a full Superman-esque outfit, with a paper lantern on his face to obscure his identity. Why a superhero? Growing up in a lower-income household that could only afford to indulge in yakiniku once a month, Koinosuke made it his life’s mission to make yakiniku an everyday luxury for the common man. As such, the first Ushikoi was founded in 2012 in Kanda, with a clear focus on not providing the most fatty and marbled meats, but those that would give the best price-performance ratio — meaning lean meat. Just because it’s leaner doesn’t mean it’s any lower in quality. Koinosuke sources his meat from the finest wagyu producers in western Japan, incorporating some of the finest brands from suppliers based in regions famous for their wagyu beef, like Saga, Kagoshima and Miyazaki Prefectures. The logic is that eating too much fatty meat leaves one with a sickly feeling afterwards, explains Koinosuke — especially when people eat as much as they do at a yakiniku restaurant. As such, each cut at Ushikoi is chosen for its “lean flavor,” and is prepared in a manner that brings out the characteristic flavor of that specific cut of meat. This emphasis on lean meat makes the restaurant popular with women and athletes, or those looking to indulge in a lot of yakiniku without feeling too guilty afterwards. Perhaps the dish at Ushikoi that best reflects the philosophy is the “Peace Beef.” Dubbed “pure edible protein,” the Peace Beef is a hand-cut piece of beef that is said to have half the fat of a typical beef loin, twice as much protein and an even deeper flavor. Another popular item is the “neginchu,” which is chopped green onions in spicy sauce. When it’s wrapped in cuts of meat, it becomes an explosion of spice, umami and pure lean meat flavors in a single bite. As mentioned earlier, the Ushikoi legacy started at this small Kanda store just a minute’s walk from the station. Refreshingly uncomplex in its simple interior, there are no gimmicks here, just lots of affordable, high-quality meat that speaks for itself and wall-mounted televisions for guests to watch ongoing sports matches as they dine. Photos of local celebrities also line the walls, proof of Ushikoi’s star power.