Chibo Kyoto Avanti

Kansai residents are already well-acquainted with Chibo. The restaurant first planted its roots in Sennichimae, Osaka, in 1973, before expanding its reach across the nation to prove that okonomiyaki, the savory cabbage pancake, is more than just a flour-based street food. But Kyoto dwellers might not be as familiar — at least, not before. With the arrival of the Chibo store on the sixth floor of the Kyoto Avanti shopping mall, the ancient capital can finally enjoy Osaka-style okonomiyaki through a gourmet lens. Chibo’s okonomiyaki is notably fluffier, thanks to its careful attention to ingredients. The flapjack is made with a proprietary flour mix and coarsely chopped domestic cabbage, which is said to become sweeter as it grills. Yam serves as a binder, while the egg is incorporated to create a genuine Kansai-style okonomiyaki. Achieving this light texture is no easy feat; chefs whisk the batter to order until it’s airy, and the batter is turned over four times to trap air. But even with the commitment to authenticity, Chibo infuses its menu with originality. It’s evident in one of its signature dishes: the Dotonboriyaki, where the okonomiyaki is packed with pork belly, beef tendon, konjac, squid, shrimp and cheese. The brown okonomiyaki sauce glazed on top perfectly compliments the white, mayo-like sauce. It is sprinkled with Suji Aonori, a river seaweed known for its piquant aroma, and even more katusoboshi — bonito flakes. More familiar teppanyaki dish comes through the crispiness of negiyaki, made with Kyoto-grown green onions, grilled gyoza, and flat top-grilled beef and shrimp. On the topic of dining in Kyoto, Chibo Kyoto Avanti fits the bill. It has cozy seats and a counter with a sprawling teppanyaki grill, where diners can watch the dishes prepared by the chefs before them. Dining is made memorable, knowing that the food is executed with respect to its roots yet tweaked to the local palate.