Shinjuku Sushi Ebisu

Popping up next to the Hakata Gekijo in Shinjuku, this confident spot wears a lot of hats: a sushi counter, an oyster bar and an izakaya. And it is no surprise: Shinjuku Sushi Ebisu is the latest sibling of the Sushi Ebisu family, known for their roster of jazzed-up, sushi-inspired renditions that put casual snacks and alcohol drinks as the name of the game. Proving that sushi dining can be stylish and delicious, the store still taps into its inherited eager-to-explore spirit, where offerings deviate beyond standard sushi fares. This is evident in its kiwame sushi, a delicious “millefeuille” of sushi rice and horse meat tartare topped with ikura and fresh sea urchin. Equally imaginative is the shrimp and crab “gassen," whose name is inspired by the Japanese folktale Saru-Kani Gassen (The Monkey-Crab Battle). This dish features succulent shrimp and crab meat tucked into a crab shell and finished with more salmon roe. There is also the ikura cocktail: a bed of rice served in a sexy martini glass beneath a thick layer of roe. For traditionalists, Sushi Ebisu still offers orthodox sushi at reasonable fares. Their kohada (gizzard shad), marinated mackerel, fatty tuna and sauce-brushed conger eel nigiri with the dexterity of a top-tier omakase venue. But then, the restaurant would also whip out seemingly creations like deep-fried natto rolls or unagi nigiri with butter shaving or truffle-topped seared scallops. The drinks list travels a similar exciting trajectory from wines to domestic sake. With warm walls and cozy table seats for group dining, Sushi Ebisu is already building a solid local buzz behind its sunny exterior.