Sushi Takahiro (Shinjuku)

Every sushi chef’s dream is to start their own restaurant. To a sushi chef, “going independent”, as it is called in the business, is the culmination of one’s years of training and mastery in the culinary tradition. For Chef Ikuta Takahiro, this has been a long time coming. He entered the sushi business when he was just 18 years old, an apprentice going to Toyosu Market every morning to learn the ins and outs of choosing fresh fish. Most chefs take the better part of two decades, even three, before going independent. But at just 31 years of age, Chef Ikuta hung up his hat at Isetan Shinjuku’s Sushi Rosan, and opened the doors of Sushi Takahiro in January 2024 — a testament to his talent and skill. Taking cues from the masters who came before him, Chef Ikuta is just as particular about the ingredients in his nigiri. The foundation of sushi is the rice, and he cuts no corners in this regard. The house blend of rice is primarily the famous Haenuki variety from Yamagata Prefecture, mixed with a proportion of whatever rice is in season at the time. He selects each grain for its texture and sweetness, ensuring it is the ideal fit for his sushi toppings. Wasabi, meanwhile, comes straight from a producer in the Amagi region in the Izu Peninsula, one of the most renowned wasabi production areas in the whole country. And, of course, as he has done for the past 13 years, he continues to go to Toyosu Market every morning to find the finest fish, meeting with fishermen who have supplied him since he was young. Each fish is then prepared with the method that best brings out its particular flavor and texture. Service is best enjoyed with a glass of wine or sake from Chef Ikuta’s premium collection, which includes not just reds and whites, but even orange wine — a product of a rare type of fermentation that leaves the skin on green grapes. But Chef Ikuta is also known to save the best for last. His shimemono, or closing dishes, are often the part of the meal that is the most looked forward to — the perfect end to a flawless omakase meal.