Shibuya Sushi Inase

The young but inimitable Ogouchi Toshiki, who prefers to go by “Gocchi,” has the resume of a seasoned sushi master. He entered the industry at 20, trained at the Michelin-starred Sushi Yuu and expanded his repertoire to various cuisines before launching his solo venture in October 2024 — Shibuya Sushi Inase. His 10-seat counter signals to critics that he’s ready to forge his own road. Located in Shibuya, he’s staking the restaurant’s reputation on the art of Edomae sushi rendered with unusual precision and originality. All great sushi chefs design their menus with a focus, but Gocchi has an assassin’s aim. He takes cues from his former mentor and pays equal attention to the shari (sushi rice) and neta (fish topping). Koshihikari grains from Fukushima are cooked in a Hagama pot, a traditional broad-brimmed rice-cooking pot. Gocchi also adjusts his water-to-rice ratio depending on season and temperature. One day, he might use more water than the next, but the rice remains consistently plump, its texture surrendering to the fish. It’s further laced with Gocchi’s original blend of red vinegar, made from domestic sake lees aged for over 10 years. From there, each slice of nigiri at Shibuya Sushi Inase shapes its own narrative, having slightly different temperatures, flavors and textures, whether it spreads on your tongue or stays firm and chews. Horse mackerel, swordtip squid, gizzard shad and marinated tuna are seasoned and dressed with garnishes and wasabi, transforming each morsel into a slow-release burst of flavor. Gocchi knows how to work the crowd, too; no silent, coolly appraising overlord here. His convivial charm is enough to put diners at ease and dispel any notion that omakase is unapproachable. And just as if reading the minds of guests who might worry they’ll leave hungry after a fancy meal, Gocchi wraps up the experience with Japan’s quintessential comfort food: a bowl of ramen.