Sushi Ishikawa

Burrowed beneath a towering 31-story skyscraper, Sushi Ishikawa is not a casual walk-in spot that Tokyoites would simply stumble upon during a leisure stroll. Descend to the second-floor basement, however, and anyone will find that what it lacks in visibility, it makes up with breathtaking sukiya architecture and impeccable sushi. A hallway branches to two distinct dining areas: a private room featuring tatami mats and an exposed ceiling adorned with natural wooden pillars and beams, and a main dining area where an expansive hinoki cypress counter commands your full view. Listen closely, and guests might hear the sound of water gently trickling from the shishi-odoshi (deer scarer tool, now a decorative element). They don’t serve salmon nigiri, and don’t expect Western-influenced sushi rolls. Sushi master Yamaga, who has been in the establishment for 36 years, was committed to bringing traditional sushi in an era of modern culinary adaptations. Sushi toppings like sea urchin, nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch) and fatty tuna nestle on top of Koshikari rice from Nigata Prefecture are served on a tidy wooden board. Service is nothing short of excellent, and don’t forget to take note of the chef’s favorite sushi fish: the anago (conger eel).