Sushi Kakuno

Under the direction of a convivial but determined Chef Kakuno, Sushi Kakuno is at the fore of Roppongi's sushi scene. Perhaps the most interesting is his culinary philosophy: Kakuno hopes for his restaurant to be a place where guests smile after a meal. A Hokkaido native, Chef Kakuno spent 13 years honing his sushi craftsmanship at the famed Ryu-sushi at Fuchu, before starting Sushi Kakuno in 2017. His experience has taught him that good ingredients are paramount to good sushi, which is why guests seated at his counter can expect sushi made with the highest quality seaweed from the Ariake Sea and, of course, the freshest seasonal fish from the seas around Japan. Take the gizzard shad or conger eel nigiri, for example, which are served Edomae-style, or the white fish cured in kombu. Shari, or sushi rice, is built upon two types of rice cooked in a hagama pot, simmered in natural waters welled from the springs beneath the active Sakurajima volcanic belt. The plump, shiny grains absorb a proprietary rice vinegar and break down when eaten to create a harmonious blend with the neta fish. Elsewhere, conger eel sauce, known as “tsume,” is a syrupy umami elixir simmered for a week to thicken and added to the same container over 15 years. When gently brushed onto the fish, the tsume draws out their flavor. Stepping through the entrance — lit gorgeously at night by the crimson glow of the Tokyo Tower — guests instantly notice the personal touches that owner and chef Kakuno Masayuki has integrated into the restaurant’s design. The main feature of the space is the counter, where gentle water constantly flows, doubling both as a decor and as a sink for guests to cleanse their fingers at any time. Sushi is, after all, traditionally meant to be eaten with the hands.