Sushi Kimura Nihombashi

When Kimura Koji announced his departure from New York in 2015, following a 15-year stint at one of the city’s most exclusive sushi restaurants, fans mourned his exit. But one city’s loss is another’s gain: just three years later, Kimura is already heading the intimate, 10-seat hinoki cypress counter at his sushi concept in Nihonbashi. But being so close to the capital’s first fish market, his Edomae-style omakase menu still employs seafood from somewhere else: Hachinohe, a leading fishing port town in southeast Aomori Prefecture, known to boast some of the rarest seafood that Tokyo lacks. It’s also where Kimura spent his adolescent years before moving to Tokyo at 18 years old to start his apprenticeship. Though Tokyo was hardly devoid of stellar sushi masters, Kimura's talents shine through among the growing crop of young talents. He draws inspiration from his time in New York, Aomori and Tokyo. Fish is flown in from Hachinohe on Honshu’s northeast coast, while his sushi rice comes from Yamagata's Koshihikari grains, seasoned with just red vinegar and salt in true Edomae fashion. His omakase, offered in two intimate seatings each evening, often begins with delicate tsunami — such as sea bream sashimi or grilled fish — crafted with refined restraint. The experience then transitions to ultra-seasonal nigiri, featuring ingredients like Spanish mackerel, tiger prawn and fatty tuna, each meticulously calibrated in temperature, thickness, and freshness for a flawless bite. Splurge on the sake pairing, served in handcrafted pewter cups and pitchers by artisans in Kyushu. Dining is hushed but relaxed, punctuated only by Kimura’s occasional chats with guests between courses behind the unblemished, blonde slab of hinoki cypress. His time in New York has also made him an excellent conversationalist among international diners, as he explains the fish in great detail in English.