Tempura Taku

Tempura Taku has moved from Kasukabe in Saitama to a new spot in Tokyo’s Kagurazaka, taking up the third floor of a building that also hosts the Michelin-starred Tanimoto. It’s one of the few places that’s bucked the trend of going forward-thinking and instead sticks to its signature move. This is to say: what Tempura Taku does, it’s been doing exceptionally and constantly well. Helming the fryer is owner Masuda Takumi, the young chef who cuts his teeth in kaiseki and works around a tempura batter that is light and airy. The key is to aerate the flour as it is blended into the mixture so that it coats the ingredients evenly in a thin, even blanket. As for the items, Masuda has pulled together a program that swings between seafood and vegetables. Japanese tiger prawns, bigfin squid and conger eel brought from Toyosu get alternated with sweet potatoes and asparagus tips, each fried in selected oil blends — Masuda favors safflower oil for its lighter crisp. The specialty Bafun sea urchin is wrapped in seaweed, while summer offers the unique experience of live Ayu sweetfish prepared fresh from the aquarium. Typically, Tempura Taku’s course closes with a choice of tendon or tencha, an ochazuke-style tempura rice bowl where dashi stock is poured over the rice, for a harmonious finish. Always serving his guests with a smile, dining at Tempura Taku stands out thanks to Masuda’s beaming personality. Michelin Guide accolades: 2024 - Michelin Selected