Sushi Ebisu Ebisu Honten

In 2020, Sushi Ebisu took over a next-door spot in its namesake neighborhood to show Tokyoites that enjoying sushi doesn’t have to be an either-or choice — either traditional or trendy. Because somehow, this chic sushi izakaya manages to nail both. The trimmings of a classic sushi-ya are still there, seen through the polished wooden counter and exposed sake bottles lining the ledge, but the interior lines are softer, and large windows partly swathed with white noren reveal a compact table with benches and stools. The restaurant is stocked with domestic fish, casual snacks and sashimi, and the menu reads as inexpensive. Their Edomae nigiri, which uses authentic red vinegar called “akazu,” is their specialty — collections include tender fatty tuna, amberjack, truffle-topped scallops and more — but most diners will also want to rummage through the specialty menu, where some intriguing surprises await. The real talking point is their unadulterated use of ikura, or salmon roe. Their savory millefeuille has horse meat yukhoe (Korean-style tartare) sandwiched between two blankets of sushi rice, topped with uni, and, of course, even more ikura. Another must-try is the crab and shrimp duo, where the meat is stuffed inside the crab shell, topped with quail egg yolk and draped with even more salmon roe. To eat it, one mixes it and spreads it across the thin sushi rolls. Meanwhile, the ikura cocktail wows, presented in a sleek cocktail glass, where a bed of sushi rice cradles glossy roe. On the drink side, it’s a sushi-and-alcohol affair. Both reds and whites are recommended based on the type of rice vinegar and soy sauce used in the meal.