Shabuzen Yotsuya

In Japan, shabu-shabu takes its name from the soft swish of thinly sliced beef drawn through simmering broth, and few dishes capture the pleasure of a shared table quite so well. At Shabuzen Yotsuya, a minute’s walk from Yotsuya-sanchome Station in Tokyo, that ritual unfolds on the sixth floor of a building in Yotsuya, Shinjuku. Staff in traditional Japanese attire attend to each table with the attentive care of a classic ryotei, bringing a touch of luxury dining to a relaxed setting. Guests can choose between semi-private tables, bright window-side seating and private rooms with sunken horigotatsu seating for up to ten, making the space as well suited to a family celebration as to a business dinner. The kitchen centers on Japanese Black wagyu, selected by the executive chef in three cuts. Lean round offers a clean, gentle flavor; ribeye balances richness with fine marbling; sirloin brings a deeper sweetness. Guests choose between shabu-shabu and sukiyaki, and the beef arrives with Yamagata pork and a platter of domestic vegetables. For a rarer indulgence, an A5 Yamagata beef ribeye course showcases fine-grained meat and fat that melts on the tongue. Each course opens with two small appetizers, and since its founding Shabuzen has favored all-you-can-eat courses, letting guests return to their favorite cut at their own pace. Shabu-shabu concludes with kishimen noodles and mochi in the remaining broth, while sukiyaki ends with egg and rice. Seasonal menus appear throughout the year, too. As the pot settles and the last ribbons of steam drift upward, what lingers is the warmth of Japanese cuisine shared slowly, in good company.