Shinsen Kappo Sanoya

Tucked away in Shibuya's precinct, Shinsen Kappo Sanoya delivers traditional Japanese degustation with contemporary Japanese riffs and playful flourishes. It’s an idea by owner-chef Sano Masayuki, who’s behind the counter to present his hyper-seasonal course with a strong emphasis on hospitality. Sano is a man of many talents, a figure constantly on the move. After training in the United States for two years, he trained in Hokkaido before spending another decade in Kyoto. His experience spans managing a school cafeteria and refining his skills in both Italian, French and Japanese cuisine. At the heart of his menu lies dashi — the foundation of Japanese cooking — and the finest seasonal ingredients. Signature creations, like his herring soaked in rice bran, bancha tea and water, exemplify his attention to flavor. Sano also prepares his own kelp stock, blending kelp, dried tuna flakes and bonito flakes. Even his rice, sourced from Uonuma, Niigata Prefecture, is cooked in a two-lid pot. At first, the dishes at Shinsen Kappo Sanoya may seem familiar — even standard. But Sano quickly subverts expectations with techniques that verge on the gastronomic. Where else can one find a kappo that serves chawanmushi infused with burdock puree, lotus root, conger eel, green onion and Japanese pepper “espuma” — a technique that turns an ingredient into a foam — or a nitrogen apple sherbet for dessert? While the menu showcases bold creativity, the drinks are more refined. Guests can opt for the sake pairing course to go with the meal on the hinoki cypress counter. Sano’s warm presence and natural English conversational skills ensure guests feel instantly at home in this once-domestic space.