Jukuseibuta Kawamura

Jukuseibuta Kawamura might only have one thing on the menu, but it delivers that one thing exceptionally well. The tiny but formidable joint in suburban Yamashina is known for its perfectly executed tonkatsu — pork cutlets coated in panko (breadcrumbs) and deep-fried to golden perfection. The chef manning the fryer has it down to a science. While the store primarily sources pork from Kagoshima Prefecture, other premium brands, like Tokyo X, occasionally make an appearance. The cutlets are aged for up to five weeks to enhance their flavor and draw out moisture. They’re then coated with panko breadcrumbs delivered from a Tokyo producer. The frying process involves two meticulous steps: first, frying at a low temperature in pure lard to cook the meat to tender perfection, and then double-frying in a blend of canola oil and lard at a high temperature for a stunning golden crisp. The interior is, frankly, nothing to talk about — bare walls with the photocopied handwritten menu — but if you’ve come this far, you know to put expectations on its outstanding pork cutlets. The set meals come with rice, pickles, and pork soup, complemented by condiments like Ojika sauce from Gion, soy sauce from Yakushima, rock salt, and grain mustard. Portions can be hearty, so come in with a good appetite. Jukuseibuta Kawamura is a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant for 2024.