Muromachi Kaji

Muromachi Kaji lies somewhere between a kappo and an izakaya, though the debate hardly matters as diners gravitate here for good seasonal meals and even better sake. Beyond its illustrative noren curtain and recessed in the back alley near Kyoto Gojo Station, owner-chef Kaji Takashi stands behind a wooden counter with a resume that matches his Michelin pedigree; he trained at Gion Ryori Torimoto and Gion Nishikawa and brings decades of skill to share with his apprentices. His cooking is partly Kyoto-style kaiseki, partly feel-good dishes that you actually want to eat. He welcomes diners in two evening rotations, always taking the time to explain the day's ingredients. The menu is a la carte, but some items are must-orders, like sashimi and tempura. The otoshi hassun is an appetizer that reflects the season’s harvest, while the potato salad is ever-present, simple but almighty: a small scoop in a mamezara, made better with sake lees. The gingko nut rice cooked in earthenware is a homespun welcome, too. Other dishes are reflective of Kyoto’s culinary soul: ever-changing, but always lyrically beautiful, seasonally tuned items. Any night of the week, the place is packed with newcomers and regulars. Booking is highly coveted, so plan ahead.