Sushi Watanabe (Arakicho)

The facade of Sushi Watanabe is most stunning in the evening, when the restaurant opens. Tucked away in Yotsuya, a glowing lantern lights the way through the dark, while a narrow, low-set window offers a glimpse into the warm dining space. Despite its modest size, featuring just seven seats along a raw Kiso cypress counter, Sushi Watanabe remains one of the most sought-after reservations in the area. Owner and chef Watanabe Masayasu, the man behind the counter, opened Sushi Watanabe in 2014. Initially trained as a traditional Japanese chef, a skill he honed during his time in Kyoto, Watanabe was struck by the contrasting techniques used to handle fish in kaiseki and sushi, and decided to dedicate himself to mastering the art of sushi. Watanabe’s sushi omakase beautifully pleats his past as a kaiseki chef with his present expertise as a sushi master. His omakase course begins with 10 seasonal appetizers, each one a fleeting expression of the season’s best flavors. A standout dish is his softly simmered black abalone served with a rich liver sauce. The tender abalone is first enjoyed as a snack before savoring the remaining sauce mixed with rice and garnished with wasabi. When it comes to sushi, Watanabe follows a more traditional approach, focusing mainly on nigiri and flavor balance. For example, in summer, he serves tuna from fixed nets in Funka Bay, Hokkaido, pairing it with red vinegared rice. In winter, as the tuna becomes sweeter, he opts for white-vinegared rice. His summer specialty is sea urchin is served atop rice. Watanabe’s omakase can extend to three hours, but the attentive and courteous service makes the time flow effortlessly.