Setagaya Chukasoba Soshigaya Nanachome Shokudo

While it’s certainly a mouthful, Setagaya Chukasoba Soshigaya Nanachome Shokudo might hold the award for the most literally-named ramen shop in the whole of Tokyo. It’s in Setagaya Ward, in the Soshigaya-nanachome subdistrict, and is a shokudo — casual restaurant — that serves ramen (traditionally called chuka-soba). Unlike most other ramen restaurants, which are usually named after the owner or head chef, Soshigaya Nanachome Shokudo chooses instead to name itself after its immediate locality, out of appreciation for the Soshigaya-nanachome neighborhood. The restaurant is right at home amid trendy restaurants, quiet cafes and small bicycle stores. In fact, though it’s just off the main street, the shop is particularly difficult to find. The signboard outside doesn’t even bear its name; it can only be found in extremely small print in the bottom right corner of its noren curtain. The Michelin sticker — courtesy of the Bib Gourmand award it snagged just two years after opening — is inconspicuously applied to one side of the doorframe. Nonetheless, the hidden treasure that lies within its sliding doors is sublime: the flavor profile of its signature Shodoshima shoyu (soy sauce) broth bears a heavy note of umami, thanks to generous use of dried sardine. And while a curious topping as far as ramen goes, the wontons are also sublime. The wrappers are thick and satisfying without ever being doughy, while the filling is beautifully seasoned. As they absorb the soup over the course of the meal, they slowly bloom into gorgeous, juicy parcels of meat and broth. Michelin Guide: 2022 - Bib Gourmand