Hakkoku

Hiroyuki Sato is famous for earning the restaurant Sushi Tokami a Michelin star 6 months after he joined, a feat almost totally unheard of. One might pin it down to heritage. He is, after all, part of a sushi family, although he didn't decide to carry on the family trade until he was 25 years old. Now in his thirties, he opened his own Ginza establishment in February 2018, where he curates a menu that strictly adheres to the traditions of Edomae sushi. Some of the very best tuna makes its way into his pantry, and onto his beds of rice seasoned with rich red vinegar. The meaning of the restaurant’s name is “black and white,” represented in the all black waiting room and an atmospheric dining room which contrasts light and dark tones effectively. This has to be among the most generous sushi meals in the world, with up to 30 pieces provided on the set-course menu, all outlined on a handwritten piece of paper which will be presented to you upon sitting down. This is your chance to witness the skills of a young superstar at work. In years to come, when Sato-san is a revered old sushi master, you’ll be able to say: “I was there at the very start.”