Sushidokoro Yamada

Old doesn't necessarily mean bad. This has never been as true as at Ginza's Sushidokoro Yamada, a restaurant that practices making sushi in true Edomae tradition. Ginza is a hotbed of high-end omakase sushi restaurants, but even among such fierce competition, Sushidokoro Yamada has made a name for itself in the district's southern half — near Uchisaiwaicho Station — as an omakase restaurant that doesn't break the bank. Owner-chef Yamada Yusuke called upon his childhood experiences in his hometown fishing village when mastering the fine techniques of Edomae sushi-making. His personal story is encompassed in the 15-serving course that varies daily; each one depends on Chef Yamada's choices at the market that very morning, as he goes down — every day — to inspect the catch of the day. What many have said makes Chef Yamada's nigiri particularly outstanding is his precise preparation of the sushi rice, or shari. When shaping the rice, Chef Yamada takes into account the freshness, texture, and type of seafood that will be laid atop the shari. Dressed with a blend of red and white vinegar, each topping's size and temperature are even taken into account to make for a perfect bite with the rice. Chef Yamada is also as creative as it gets with his flavor combinations. His sushi-making technique is meant to draw out the subtleties of the ingredients' natural flavors. For instance, the shiitake and raw oyster nigiri are seasoned only with salt and dressed with oyster juice — not a drop of soy sauce to be seen. In true omakase fashion, dishes are never constant, so guests are left to anticipate the in-the-moment reveal of each, which is why customers return time and time again to try more of Chef Yamada's newest creations.