Eat sushi like a local in Osaka

December had finally arrived. That meant for me winter break after a term of intensive learning Japanese in Tokyo. After bidding farewell to all those magnificent fall colors of the different maple and other trees, I started planning my trip to Osaka and Kyoto. Being on a tourist visa, it was very convenient for me. With it, I could buy a JR Pass Ticket* and enjoy a ride with the shinkansen (high-speed bullet trains) while saving up on some cash.

On the day of the trip, I boarded the Hikari-shinkansen from Tokyo station and set off to Kansai! Though the weather was not on my side on this particular day. It was all cloudy, and I didn’t get the chance to witness Mt. Fuji from the train window. Nonetheless, watching the Japanese country-side and wild nature, was really satisfying and soul-soothing after three full months, almost, exclusively spent within the vast metropolis of Tokyo.

Not much longer than two and a half hours later, I was there, arriving at Shin-Osaka station! I got off and took a local JR train to the main Osaka station. Although the trip was pleasantly short, being up since early morning, had made me so hungry. I couldn’t wait to have my first bite of food in the nation’s kitchen! Since I was still alone to go for okonomiyaki and had an appetite for something more umami than takoyaki (both notoriously tasty in Osaka), I opted for sushi. From budget nigiri to high-cuisine sashimi, Osaka is a definitive sushi destination.

After a brief research on the net, I made up my mind for Harukoma sushi restaurant. It was not that close to the Osaka station, but based on online reviews, it was a place where you could get from low to medium budget sushi, really fresh and loved by the locals. Having heard about the warmness and openness of the Osakans, compared to Tokyoites, I was really eager to figure this out myself.

It took me a good 25 minutes’ walk to Harukoma Honten*. Of course, you can use the train to reach Tenma station, which is the closest one to the restaurant. But after the shinkansen ride, my body called for some physical exercise. Besides that, I was in a new city, so there’s no better way to explore a new place than by walking! On my way there, I had to enter the Tenjinbashisuji Shotengai, apparently Japan’s longest shopping street. The whole atmosphere was intriguing and seemed so different from that of Tokyo’s. Sunny weather was a definitive plus. So, if you find yourself in Osaka, I highly suggest a nice leisurely walk in Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Street before going for your sushi lunch!

When I arrived at Harukoma-honten, I was surprised by how tiny the shop was, compared to the quite long line. The line was divided into two parts in order not to obstruct the business of the nearby shop. You could see several tourists, mainly Chinese and Koreans, but also Osakans of all ages. I remember an adorable grandpa on his wheel-chair, accompanied by his grandson. He was willing to wait outside in the humid breeze in order to have his favorite sushi!

While we were patiently waiting for our turn to come, a man from the shop would occasionally come out to hand out bilingual catalogs to the first half of the line. I managed to reach the end of it unexpectedly fast. When I was among the first four persons waiting in line, the clerk called us in. Entering the sushi shop, I was stunned by its ridiculously petit size and compact arrangement. Practically, there was a corner bar counter around the kitchen with about 15 seats and another three bigger tables with benches suited for companies and families. I was seated right at the corner. Right in front of us were the glass windows of the fridges filled with all sorts of daily fresh fish and seafood! You could see the three experienced sushi chefs preparing the orders swiftly but with diligent delicateness. I was already quite hungry because of the trip and walking to the restaurant, so I couldn’t wait to order!

The ordering system was rather simple. In front of every seat at the counter’s bar, there is a paper block. All you have to do is to write down all the different sushi you want to eat (either in Japanese, romaji, or just the dish number) and the quantity. The menu has a picture of every single sushi, dish number, price, the name in Japanese, romaji (romanization), and English. Every nigiri dish comes in pieces of two (unless stated otherwise in the menu), and the maki rolls in a 6-piece dish. Single orders come on square ceramic dishes and mass orders on larger stone plates. You can order as many times as you feel like. Be mindful of the prices, though, because if you go for the more luxurious fish and seafood, you will end up with a considerable amount of yen on your bill!

I placed a quite brave order as I went for some all new to me clams, shells, and fish egg, but also some classics to be able to compare with other sushi places. And, of course, assure that I will satisfy both my hunger and taste-buds! One excellent drink choice was a simple Asahi beer, which only comes in the 600ml bottle. The best thing to accompany my sushi after the trip.

First, a hot towel and a ceramic cup of green tea arrived and then, the first dish! Finally, some food! Two pieces of ikura (salmon roe) came on a single plate. Those shiny orange bubbles were considerably bigger than usual. I took some soy sauce with the brush from red lacquer box and some pink gari (pickled ginger) from the black one (I suppose that’s Osaka-style) and let the magic begin!

The salmon roe was so sweet and juicy and slightly salty due to the soy sauce, and this little slice of cucumber gave a twist of freshness to it. Next came my big black stone plate with a generous amount of wasabi-paste at the side. I started with the tai (snapper) trilogy. The first part must have been from the belly front of the fish, as it was rather soft and fatty, effortless eating, and delicious. The middle one was slightly chewy because of the pink fish skin, so a middle belly part. The third was probably from the upper side and closer to the tail. With a bit of roe, some finely chopped green onion on top, and a thin nori wrapping, making it the most mouth-engaging and complex of the three. The kazunoko (sun-dried herring roe) had a crunchy mouthfeel and a sharp flavor. Unagi (eel) was simply yummy! Sweet due to the thick soy sauce and slightly smoky grilled. The torigai (heart clam or cockle) had a moderate, barely chewy texture and a fulfilling sweetness. Ama-ebi (sweet roe shrimp) was fresh and gave me this fruit-eating summer sensation when you dive your teeth in the skin of the fruit. It’s a bit crunchy, while the flesh inside is refreshing but not too sweet.

The last pieces of my big plate were two clam nigiri, but honestly, I do not remember their names, as I ordered them on a whim. Both had very exquisite taste, very different from each other, both demanding considerable mouth-work to chew them properly. Not my favorite choice of the day. I finished my Osaka sushi experience with aji (Japanese horse mackerel) and (hara-kami ho-)toro maguro, extra fatty tuna slices from the front belly part of the fish. Definitely, the best choice of the day! Both so soft, especially the tuna, melting in the mouth like butter, umae!

I ordered the bill, paid and left the shop in an okinii chorus chanted together from restaurant staff. That’s the Kansai-way to say arigatou gozamaisu! 

Outside, I took a photo of the restaurant, to make sure that next time I come to the right place for sushi. Hopefully, with improved Japanese skills, so I can chat with my Osakan table neighbors!

*Mind that there are 3(!) Harukoma stores. Honten was apparently the smallest one, while Harukoma shinten is not too far away and way more spacious. The third one is called just Harukoma sushi and lies on the northern shore of Yodo River.