Chicken Kappo Hajime

Stepping through the doors of Chicken Kappo Hajime is like taking a step back in time; its creamy lighting, dark wood furniture and latticed windows are straight out of the Taisho Roman era. But its preparation methods are anything but traditional. For instance, its yakitori goes through a deceptively simple two-step process. As with all yakitori, the meat is grilled above a charcoal flame—but Hajime’s method involves placing a water-filled pan beneath the charcoal. As the water evaporates, it steams the chicken. This process brings out the meat’s natural flavor and juices, before the direct heat from the coals seals them in with a crispy crust. The meat is also sparingly seasoned, making sure to let the natural flavor and texture of the chicken shine through. According to the chefs, ingredients are important—they are, after all, the bedrock of Japanese cuisine. But just as important is finding the optimal way with which to prepare them, so as to maximize their inherent flavors. And oftentimes, that “optimal way” involves washing it down with a glass of sake from Hajime’s vast collection. Handpicked by the chef’s wife, the rarest of its selection includes some of Shinkame Sake Brewery’s finest long-aged sake.